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Green is Good!

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Gaziano & Girling Gable

Picture Courtesy of Redpig’s Blog

I just stumbled upon this picture of the Gaziano & Girling ‘Gable’ model and could not help but be enamored with it. I was never that fond of the ‘Gable’ model in it’s stock color of dark brown and on G&G’s ever popular TG73 last (the chisel toe). However, after seeing it in this lovely shade of green on the DG70 last (my favorite one), I have now come to look at it in a new light. A good green shade is hard to execute. Too dark and you don’t get to appreciate it for what it is. Too light and it becomes ostentatious. It’s also one of those colors that inevitably has to be given a slight patina to it, shading it with a bit of black and thus giving it depth. Because it if is just a flat shade, it looks quite awful. Here they have done a brilliant job by subtly deepening it without completely drowning the color of its luster. And when executed properly like this, green becomes a shade that for me, can be paired with many other colors, including most that we all wear suits in….

On another note, I have created Facebook event pages for my trunks shows in Asia. For those of you who plan on attending and would like to comment on the event page, please see their links below:

Hong Kong Event Page: https://www.facebook.com/events/1496731150576261/

Singapore Event Page: https://www.facebook.com/events/823862014303983/?ref=22

For those of you who don’t know what I a referring to above but are curious, please see this link: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2014/10/the-shoe-snobj-fitzpatrick-goes-to-hong-kong-singapore.html

Sincerely,

Justin, “The Shoe Snob”


Varied Colors by Paolo Scafora

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Paolo Scafora Claymoors List2

PIcture courtesy of Claymoor’s List

Putting multiple colors in one shoe is never easy. Doing it well is even harder, particularly when there is more than 2 colors involved. Of course, with patina these days it seems not quite as magical especially as it is becoming more and more prevalent within the shoe industry. What I liked about this Paolo Scafora model is that the patina is so subtle that it almost looks unintentional as if it aged that way. The shoe, being olive green at heart, really offers something so much more than simply a green oxford with its hints of tan, dark brown and reddish tones. The darkening of the brogueing makes it even that much more special (at least for me). And while the French can lay claim to the art of the Patina, the Italians do it quite well for their RTW collections, as clearly shown….

Green Greatness by Meccariello

Edward Green At Pitti Uomo 87

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Edward Green

 

Another stop that I always make is the Edward Green stand and this time I saw something very interesting stuff, including this boot above, which I believe was a design of theirs from the early 1900’s that they are reinventing! Among others was the addition of some nice green semi brogues and some lovely spectator two tones in blue. It was nice to see EG branching out a bit, quite contrary to the comments that I had written in my previous post about them. Guess that I should have waited to see their Pitti stand!! Oh well, at least they are going for it and that is all that matters. Well done EG, keep it up!

And for those of you who happen to read this blog and have a shoe line of your own, no matter where it is, be warned that Edward Green have a patent for this boot above so copying it by any means would be an unwise decision. Just saying….

Edward Green Edward Green Edward Green Edward Green

Saint Crispins Launches at Skoaktiebolaget

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Saint Crispins

Saint Crispins just launched at Skoaktiebolaget and I think that it is great for all parties involved. What I like most is that Skoab (as they are know for short) is always creating things that are slightly different so I greatly look forward to their exclusive make ups. That being, great content on TSS to come!! And I still haven’t forgot, but I will soon do my write up on my SC boots that I made in collaboration with them a few months back. Stay tuned for that I wish everyone a great weekend!

All pictures courtesy of Skoaktiebolaget.

Saint-Crispins-104-CRU5872-GE8-Classic-F-01 Saint-Crispins-105-CRU603-GE8-Classic-G-01 Saint-Crispins-522FC-CRU999-GE8-Classic-F-01 Saint-Crispins-524FC-CRU5384-GE8VIB-Riva-F-01 Saint-Crispins-539-CRU606-GE8-Classic-F-01 Saint-Crispins-546FC-CRUG800-GE8-Chiseled-F-01 Saint-Crispins-645-CRU611-GE8-Chiseled-F-01 Saint-Crispins-Boots-Inca

New Bespoke On The Block – Nicholas Templeman

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It is always interesting to see how a shoemaker will branch out from where they came and how their making will be different to that of the parent company (the one that taught them). The best example is Japanese shoemakers that come to Europe, learn in England or Italy and then go back to Japan and take what they learned, building upon it to make it even better. This is precisely what Nicholas Templeman seems to be doing.

Nicholas started his shoemaking roots at John Lobb St. James where he was a lastmaker and fitter. Clearly wanting to see where his own passion and interests could take him Nicholas soon branched out to start his own company after he felt that he had learned all that he could from Lobb. Having a very different aesthetic to Lobb’s classically robust look, I would say Nicholas’ future looks quite promising and I am exciting to not only seeing his full range of samples complete, but also those two stunners that are in the works, all done up with a sole and all.

It is always nice to see young people go at it with tenacity and courage and I wish Nicholas all the best with his endeavors!! Now if you are in the market for bespoke at what I am sure are non-West End prices, give him a look up!

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Huang Niu – The Last Bespoke Maker out of China

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Great and well made shoes can come from anywhere and even though China gets a bad rap for making things that are cheap and of poor quality, that is not to say that everything that comes out of there is of the same caliber. For example, Huang Niu, better known on Instagram as @wanmenxiedao is among a dying breed of the true, handmade bespoke shoemakers that are left in China (of Chinese origin, Masaura Okuyama does not count). Thanks to Instagram, I was able to stumble upon him and have been trying to get to know more since. The problem is that he does not speak a word of English. But luckily he has a kind friend who writes to me on his behalf. While, I want to do a larger piece on him when I have some more time, I thought that I would at least get his name out there and show all of you just how well made shoes can come from many places outside of the EU, even the most unexpected places, such as China. The next post that I write on  him will actually show a lot more his handwork.

Happy Weekend to all!

Justin, “The Shoe Snob”

Huang Niu Huang Niu Huang Niu Huang Niu welt

Green Museum Calf – VASS

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Vass shoes

 
Green is good! Or was that “Greed is Good”? I don’t know, but same thing!! Hahaha! I am in a cheerful mood thanks to the sun finally showing itself across the planet (of Europe) and the endorphin’s are kicking in making me unusually optimistic despite not having reasons to be. Currently I am in Stockholm, Sweden having my trunk show at Skoaktiebolaget and was discussing with the boys here the prevalence of museum calf and I asked myself, ‘does anyone use green museum calf?’ Naturally I went online to find it and if I am not mistaken this Vass shoe shown is using it, which makes one beautiful concoction courtesy of Ascot Shoes (large online distributor for Vass). I quite enjoy the fact that I am seeing more and more green shoes being made up as MTO and thus purchased. It is a great color for all year ’round really and can be quite striking when worn right. Well done to a friend of mine for choosing this colorway ;-)


Crockett & Jones A/W Collection Now Shown – Coming Soon

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10.Camberley Dark Brown Suede - Crockett & Jones AW15

 
Summer has only been a month going but for me it feels like it is almost over and I can’t say why but it does. And possibly because you are already seeing A/W stock in the stores. Soon enough S/S will launch in Nov. and A/W will come in April. What is the world coming to? It has become like a race to ‘who launches first’ and thus makes all of the sales. Not to say that this is happening in our prestigious industry of well made footwear, but it seems to be a growing trend across all other sectors of clothing.

3.Skye Black Calf - Crockett & Jones AW15 3.Skye Chestnut Calf - Crockett & Jones AW15

4.Pembroke Dark Brown Scotch Grain - Crockett & Jones AW15 4.Pembroke Dark Green Scotch Grain - Crockett & Jones AW15

With that, I have recently received the press release of C&J’s new upcoming A/W stock. There are some interesting pieces there and it would appear that C&J is preparing for a heavy winter here in England as some of these boots/brogues look like they could be worn through the thick of the thick. To be honest, I would not mind some snow this year. Then I would have more excuses to wear my own hiking boots!

1.Galway (Front Cover) - Crockett & Jones AW15 6.Galway Dark Brown Country Calf - Crockett & Jones AW15

I am quite keen on the Galway model above. It reminds me of a smart version of a mix between my old Sebago boots and the chunky Red Wing boot (you know the famous model of theirs). But as both of those are not really my style anymore (in the case of Red Wing, never was), these seem right up my snobbish alley!  Funny how most English makers use the same names for their shoes though, and mainly things/places that are in England. Who is going to come out with a line full of London or Manchester street names? In my opinion that would be quite cool. Hopefully you guys enjoy the new collection!

8.Malton Dark Brown Calf - Crockett & Jones AW15 9.Lingfield Black Calf - Crockett & Jones AW15 9.Lingfield Dark Brown Calf - Crockett & Jones AW15 7.Ealing Dark Brown Calf Suede - Crockett & Jones AW15

 

Green = Next Year’s Color

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I have some gut feeling that Green is the color of 2016. I see more and more companies using it for their shoes and more and more people buying it (at least from what I see online, not so much in the streets!). I do intend to have at least one green shoe in my collection as I once had and know that for sure one will be in this new, beautiful green suede that I found. But back to the idea at hand and the shoes in the post, I saw this lovely Bontoni shoe in what looks to be a dark forest green and couldn’t help but feel that green was on the rise. Just wait and see. And soon will be the day that dark green and navy leather will start to seep more and more into the industries that only allowed black and dark brown shoes. It’s not long now!

And for those that might have overlooked it, remember my brand, J.FitzPatrick Footwear, just started it’s Summer Sale. Things are going quick so don’t miss out!   http://www.jfitzpatrickfootwear.com/collections/summer-sale

The Hulk of Dress Shoes

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There are not many makers whose hand coloring skills compares to the likes of the team at Saint Crispins. And because of those skills, their shoes always come out looking so incredibly vivid. So vivid in fact, it makes you not want to wear them and thus ruin the perfect polish that they come with. That’s exactly how I felt when I saw this green u-cap adelaide oxford by SC for Skoaktiebolaget. I love the depth of the coloring. Due to all of the different shades it is kind of hard to label the exact color of green as there are so many in one shoe. It’s like a mixture of forest, avocado and moss green to create one ultimate, Hulk-like green shoe! Now, if only I would friggin’ see someone wearing a pair on the street. That would make it real!!!

Paolo Scafora at Pitti Uomo 89

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Paolo Scafora

Every Pitti Uomo I have my ritual of visiting the same shoemakers that present season after season. One of those makers is Paolo Scafora who in my mind is one of the most underrated shoemakers in the world, a great deal of which I believe is due to his wesbite that does not represent just how nice his shoes are. For those that don’t know, he has his own factory in Naples, specializes in hand coloring (as you can see) and makes shoes in just about every construction known to man. His welted shoes are all handwelted and hand lasted yet he uses a sole that you can bend in half like it was a pancake. But even with all of that under his belt you rarely hear of his shoes. I am hoping that will soon change.

Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora

Paolo really brought something new to the table this year as he really took pattern making to a new level with his mixture of suede incorporated into a body of calf as well as brogueing that all of the sudden stops where it would traditionally keep going. Needless to say it is all very unique and many of the pieces came out beautifully. I love this forward thinking too as it is really hard to come up with something that is truly unique. Well done Paolo!

While you won’t find a lot of shops that stock his shoes outside of Asia, you can always deal directly with the company on a MTO basis. Paolo is one of the nicest guys around and is very accommodating.  — info@paoloscaforanapoli.it —

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Paolo in the background!

                                                                Paolo in the background!

Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora Paolo Scafora

The Beauty of a Good Background

The World of Shoes – Dimitri Gomez

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The World of Shoes – Dimitri Gomez

A new shoe website has recently been born, naturally looking to encompass everything shoes: from selling, to educating, to listing out every brand ever invented (worth mentioning that is) and all the rest that a good blog/website comes with. While it is still in its infant stages (building a proper website takes A LOT OF TIME!!!), ‘The World of Shoes‘ looks to become something of a cross between Mr.

Continue reading The World of Shoes – Dimitri Gomez at The Shoe Snob Blog →

Mario Bemer’s New Model


Green Shoes – Trend or ‘The Future’?

Going Green with Aubercy

Mario Bemer Firenze on The Shoe Snob Marketplace

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Mario Bemer Firenze on The Shoe Snob Marketplace

Mario Bemer Firenze (not the actual Mario Bemer whose now set up Mario Bemer USA) has listed some shoes on The Marketplace.

I have always loved the featured model and one lucky chap shall grab these!

Read More →

Crockett & Jones A/W Collection Now Shown – Coming Soon

Green = Next Year’s Color

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